You get whatever was caught that day - perhaps pasta with calamari, mussels and clams, or the catch of the day grilled on the barbecue (mains from £15 ).īy the time you get to Catania, you see the big beast - Mount Etna, Europe’s largest active volcano. On the beach of Porto Palo di Menfi, Da Vittorio reminds me of the family setup I grew up in. On the way, you’ll also pass one of my favourite places to eat in Italy. Īround Marsala and Castelvetrano are well-kept olive groves and good wines, stretching all the way to Agrigento, where you have the Unesco-listed Valley of the Temples. In the western corner, visit Marsala, from where you can take the boat to San Pantaleo island to see the fantastic ancient Greek statue Il Giovinetto di Mozia. You have to try the fish couscous in the streets - fantastic. There’s a strong Arabic influence in their spicing.
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